NAMASTE!
HELLO!

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Yes! The dreams come true. And here is my experience after the first meeting with Himalayan Mountains. Annapurna Circuit offers so much, from the variety of scenery of both the northern and southern Himalaya to the variety of cultures and beautiful people. The trek is rated as one of the most beautiful treks in the world. I hope it is going to stay like that...

Hi, I am Aleks, student, designer, amateur photographer and outdoor enthusiast. This year I decided to make one of my dreams comes true and go to Nepal. When planning the Annapurna Circuit trek, my other half Michal and I decided that we would take no guide and hire no porter. I am sure some local people would not support that statement. However, we didn’t actually have the budget to pay fair wage to hired people. I know that most of them don’t receive even decent pay, especially porters who do the hardest work and get just a couple of dollars per day. I am against the lack of respect for these people. What is more, it was our first trip to Asia and we wanted to do it on our own with total freedom. Nevertheless, it means that we had no translator, no one to show us any useful shortcuts, give us some background information or teach us Nepalese language as well as no one to carry our stuff. We lost many good opportunities because of that but we also gained new skills and improved our organisational skills. It did not stop us from meeting good people on our way and explore this place on our own.

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Annapurna Circuit Trek Facts

It is very difficult to find just a one good source about Annapurna Circuit. It took me ages to collect all necessary information. You can buy a map in Kathmandu, Pokhara or Besisahar but I recommend planning it earlier, just to know estimated time, distance, places to sleep and visit. Another useful tip – do not rely on one guidebook and if you don’t have time to prepare better hire a guide and pay him a proper financial reward.

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Distance // Route varies between 160km – 230km depending on start and finish points and optional side treks.

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Length // 10–21 days (the grand loop from Besisahar to Pokhara takes approximately 17–21 days but you can spend there a month too).

Difficulty // Moderate to challenging (mostly flat but there are some steep sections).

Starting elevation // 760 meters (2,493 feet) at Besisahar up to 3,450 meters (11,319 feet) at Manang, depending on your starting point.

Peak elevation // 5,416 meters (17,769 feet) at Thorong La Pass.

Guiding // Recommended but not required. Recommended especially when you have time to do side treks, want to use the best path options, be safe on the top in case of high altitude sickness.

Accommodations // Teahouse. There are plenty options. Most of them have power outlets, WIFI, shower with hot water and western or squat toilet. However, expect basics.

When to Go // Fall peak trekking season is from October to early December; spring trekking season is in March and April. However, in my opinion, the monsoon season has its advantages too (in case of AC).

Access // a 30-minute flight from Kathmandu to Pokhara or a car / bus from there to Besisahar or full day by ground transportation (Kathmandu – Besisahar, car: about 6hrs, bus: about 8-10hrs).

Documents // The Annapurna Conservation Area Permit (ACAP) and TIMS card can be purchased from the Nepal Tourism Board in Kathmandu, what takes about 30-40minutes, or Pokhara Tourist Police Office and Permit Office or through a registered guide. Each requires minimum two passport photos. Now, it is also possible to do it in Besisahar. However, they have different opening hours and, apparently, can charge more for it. You will use these to check-in at various checkpoints along the trek.

Best View // The way to and from Tal, the way from Dharapani to Chame, Upper Pisang, the way from Ghyaru to Manang, the view from above the Gangapurna Lake in Manang, Letdar, Thorung Phedi, High Camp, Thorung La Pass, Kagbeni, Marpha (unfortunately, we didn’t visit it due to bad weather), Tatopani, as well as Tilicho Lake and Poon Hill (unfortunately, we did not have enough time to do those hikes).

Mountain View // There are panoramic sceneries of Himalayas, including of the Mt. Dhaulagiri (8167m), Mt. Annapurna I (8091m) Mt. Manaslu (8163 m), Mt. Annapurna II (7937 m.) , Mt. Annapurna III (7555m), Mt. Annapurna IV (7525m), Mt. Annapurna south (7219m), Mt. Nilgiri (7041m), Mt. Fishtail also called Mt. Machhapuchhare (6998m), Mt. Hiunchuli (6441m), Mt. Lamjung Himal (6986m),Tukuche peak (6920m), Tilicho peak (7134m).

People // Communities of: Bramin, Chhetree, Tibetian sherpa, Thakali, Magars, Tamang, Gurung.

Flora //  The trek starts from sub-tropical climate, terraced paddy fields and going through forest trees including oak, beech, fir and rhododendron. Finally, those give a way to forests of pine and, ultimately, juniper. Further the landscape is quite barren as a south extension of the Tibetan plateau. On the top the atmosphere is very unique, mainly because of high altitude ice desert over Thorung La Pass at 5416m. On the other side of the pass there is Kali Gandaki River which is considered the deepest ravine in the world, five times deeper than the Grand Canyon. The landscape comes back to sub-tropical and ends with lower forests and fields.

Fauna //  Yaks, Blue Sheep (we were lucky to saw them), Snow Leopard (very unlikely you will see him), Mountain Goat and birds such as pheasant or long-tail birds among others.

What Worked // SIM card bought at the airport, merino wool baselayers, Arcteryx Atom LT Hoody – the most versatile piece in my kit, Grayl Ultralight Water Purifier – super quick and super light , Osprey Aura AG - the most comfortable backpack, Tundra - super warm sleeping bag and Merrell All Out Blaze Sieve Sandal as a footwear for light trekking and to use under a shower.

What Didn't Work // Lifeventure washbag was too heavy for backpacking, Sea to Summit Pocket Body Wash Leaves and Conditioning Shampoo Leaves did not work very well - one organis soap bar would be enough, the Lonely Planet guidebook - wrong time estimated and confusing descriptions, the booked flight from Jomsom to Pokhara was cancelled due to weather, not enough time to experience it fully.

£££ // Prices rise with altitude and it is totally understandable. I am giving you examples of prices per person.

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• Taxi from the airport: 700NPR

• 1 night in Kathmandu Village House + breakfast + free baggage storage: $11

• ACAP + TIMS permissions: 1150NPR + 1000NPR

• Private car with a driver/ bus from Kathmandu to Besisahar: $50 / $10-25

• Lunch on the way: about 350NPR

• 1 night + Dal Bhat (meal with refills) + tea + porridge + coffee in Besisahar: 930NPR

• Jeep from Besisahar to Dharapani: 1500NPR

• 1 night + Dal Bhat +tea x2 + breakfast in Upper Pisang: 1530NPR

• Vegatable soup + Momo + tea in Nagawal: 775NPR

• 2 nights + 2 meals + 2 breakfsat + drinks in Manang: about 4250 NPR

• Lunch + tea in Yak Kharka: 550NPR

• 1 night + dinner + porridge + tea in High Camp: about 2400NPR

• Lunch + coffee in Chabarbu: 550NPR
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• Visa 15 days / 30days / longer: $25

• Flights: expensive

• Insurance: expensive

• Vaccinations, drugs, also for high altitude sickness

• Extra food and shopping: lots of money

 

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'Yes! We made it! We're here. I want to kiss the Nepalese soil.'
I shall start from the beginning. I would like to give you the most useful tip - do your plan with a few extra days in it. You may be unlucky as we were. After visiting my friend in Dubai where we had a flight to Nepal, our journey began. Instead of 4hrs flight to Kathmandu we had 24hrs adventure started from flying above Asia, landing in India, coming back to Dubai, waiting at the airport to, eventually, arriving in Kathmandu. There is another tip - consider pros and cons of going to Nepal during monsoon season. Yes, I will write them down for you later.

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Here we are in the Village House hotel, one day later in Kathmandu, planning how to speed up our transport to Besisahar, where we are starting our trekking adventure tomorrow. Then, super friendly hotel service comes to us with lots of advices. We have planned transport for tomorrow - a car instead of bus - and repacked our backpacks again, leaving more stuff behind to make sure they are as light as possible.

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A NOTE ON KIT

Backpack // Osprey Aura 65L (I took the top part off and made 50L)
Water filter // Grayl Ultralight Water Purifier
Hydration bag // Camelbak Crux 3L Hydration Reservoir
Water bottle // Hydroflask 21oz Flask
Water bottle with a filter// Water To Go Bottle 50cl
Purification tablets // Lifesystems Chlorine Dioxide Tablets
Boots // Meindl Litepeak GTX (in a dry season you don’t need waterproof boots; also just to let you know: you are going to have no blisters at all if footwear is fitted properly for you and your needs, so don’t save money on this one! I did not have any blisters at all!)
Sandals // Merrell All Out Blaze Sieve Sandal
Waterproof jacket // Mountain Equipment Manaslu GTX Pro
Midlayer // Arcteryx Atom LT Hoody
Down jacket // Rab Microlight
Baselayer top // Icebraker Women’s Cool-Lite Sphere Low Crewe T-shirt
Baselayer top // Icebraker Women’s 175 Everyday Short Sleeve Crew
Baselayer top // Icebraker Women’s Siren Tank 150 Ultralight
Baselayer top // Icebraker Icebraker Women’s Long Sleeve 200
Baselayer bottoms // Icebraker Women’s Oasis Leggings
Trousers // Berghaus Ortler 2.0
Shorts // Sherpa Mirik
Socks // Smartwool PHD light, medium and heavy cushioned
Gaiters // Trekmates short with GTX
Gloves // Rab Powerstretch (warmer gloves needed in the high season)
Hat // Icebraker beanie
Sunhat // Outdoor Research Women’s Rhett Hat
Sunglasses // Bloc
Suncream //
Buffallo // Buffs synthethic
Sleeping bag // Tundra Pure -5 (I would take even warmer for high season)
Knife // Swiss Army Huntsman
Head torch // Ledlenser
Walking poles // Black Diamond Womens Specific Trail Trekking Pole Pair
Drysacks // Exped Classic
Towel // Lifeventure Softfibre Lite Towel Large
First Aid Kit //
Repair Kit //
GPS, map and compass //
Powerbank //
Socket adaptors //

The above list does not cover everything but the most essential things. I don’t think there was the way to make my backpack lighter. After all, I left a few things that aren’t mentioned above: small Osprey rucksack, two t-shirts , Bergans wind stopper and some toiletries in Kathmandu. I am glad I did that. Maybe I would leave the down jacket too but then 260g merino wool baselayer for the night on the top is necessary. Remember that better to wash your clothes with an environmentally friendly soap than carry more of them. You don’t need to carry any food with you as you can buy everything from local people, from little snacks to big meals. The meals on the trek are basic with choices ranging from porridge, pancakes, and eggs for breakfast. For lunch and dinner, you can generally choose between Dal Bhat, fried potatoes with mixed vegetables, momos, or a pasta dish. I am not going to review any meet dishes because we’re vegetarians. However, I definitely recommend yak cheese and Dal Bhat! The last one is the national dish of Nepal and it calls ‘trekkers fuel’. Mainly because it comes with unlimited refills, which is great after a day of hard trekking! Now, you will understand when you see t-shirt with ‘Dal Bhat – 24:7 Power’! In general, food in Nepal is delicious but quite spicy.